Posts Tagged ‘free online dog training class’

How to Housetrain Me. Love, Your Puppy (or Newly Adopted Dog) – Rule #2

June 23, 2010

This post can be found at the new CATCH Canine Trainers Academy blog!

Click here to read: How to Housetrain Me. Love, Your Puppy (or Newly Adopted Dog) – Rule #2 at

"I'm so glad we're having this talk. If all owners were as smart as you, all dogs would be as good as me."


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How to Housetrain Me. Love, Your Puppy (or Newly Adopted Dog) – Rule #1

June 15, 2010

This post can be found at the new CATCH Canine Trainers Academy blog!

Click here to read: How to Housetrain Me. Love, Your Puppy (or Newly Adopted Dog) – Rule #1 at


Don’t Ruin the Recall: Part 3 and a True Story That’s Tough to Take

June 10, 2010

First off, I’d like to sincerely thank everyone who has been joining in the training discussions via Facebook and Email.  I really appreciate each and every one of you who share your feedback.  And I love hearing about your training experiences with your own dogs.  It’s awesome to hear about the positive results you are getting as well as the common challenges that we all face in raising our beloved dogs.  (Dog trainers are not exempt from these challenges, trust me.)

For Part 3 today I want to give you a summary of everything I’ve taught in the past two days of posts.  This is the list of things you must know if you are going to have a dog who comes when called. So, drumroll, please… … Here are the indispensable, comprehensible, well-intentional…

Rules for Recalls

1. Never call your dog to come and then have it result in something she won’t like.
2. If you must expose your dog to something she won’t like – do NOT use any kind of recall cue before the unwanted event.  Just go get her instead.  Or do something fun in between!
3. During the early training phase when you are still teaching a recall, do NOT use your recall cue word UNLESS you are prepared to reward generously.
4. Do NOT use your recall word in situations where you know your dog will fail.  In other words, don’t start practicing this while your dog is in the middle of a euphoric chase with another dog or a squirrel.  You need to gradually work your way up to that level of distraction.  (If your dog hears the cue word over and over, all the while ignoring it, you will systematically desensitize her to the very word you are working hard to train.)
5. Use a SLACK long line at first when training so that if your dog ignores you, she CANNOT learn that ignoring you is more fun than listening to you.  (Example: You call your dog.  Your dog ignores you and chases a squirrel instead.  Outcome of ignoring is highly rewarding to her.  That’s not good for training.)  This rule is optional depending on your dog.  It’s very smart to adhere to it if you think there’s a chance you’ll get ignored and lose control of the situation.
6. Reward all recalls with FUN. This could be walks, rubs, toys, play, chase, treats, more freedom, etc – be creative!  This is especially important in early training.  Once your dog KNOWS that recalls are wonderful, the association with them will be so positive that running to you on cue will be one of her absolute favorite things to do.

"You called? I'm back!"

Now – sigh – a story about a recall that made my stomach turn.

It was just me, in shorts and a tee with a leash and a fluffy white Coton de Tulear at the end of it.  He was a pup named Grayson that had been a client of mine for over a year and his owner trusted me to take him out on my own.  We were doing a walk-and-train private lesson in Central Park.  It was the middle of a hot summer day, middle of the week, when most people are at work.  Nonetheless, the famous NYC park was living up to its billing, the paths and field abuzz with many characters.  From the joggers and disc tossers to the moms and their toddlers to the dog walkers and who-knows-what-nutters, if people-watching was your thing, this was the place to be.

Across the field, a guy in a wheelchair caught my eye because he had a Border Collie alongside him.  You don’t see many BCs in NYC.  The striking black-and-white coat stood out beautifully against the green grass and trees.  I watched them for a moment, nothing particularly interesting about them, so my eyes wandered away and back to Grayson at the end of my leash.  I put Grayson in a down-stay and was walking away from him, letting my long line drop on the ground when suddenly I heard firecrackers go off nearby.  BAM-BAM!  BAMMITTY-BAMMITTY-BAM!!!  I quickly reeled in the long line and brought Grayson beside me.  As I was doing that I saw something that made my mouth drop and my adrenaline spike.  “Oh, no,” I said aloud.

On a path across the field I could see that the firecrackers sent that Border Collie into a panic.  Her owner in the wheelchair had been holding her leash but the fear caused her to dart out in front of him so forcefully that the leash was yanked right out of his hand.  She was now a mad dash of black-and-white streaks  running frantically down the path and away from her owner in his chair.  The guy was pretty fast racing after her but he was no match for his dog.  She was heading my way when I noticed that several other people were tuned into the event and were thinking the same thing I was, “Help this poor man and GRAB THAT DOG.”

It quickly became clear, though, that this Border Collie had a serious fear of strangers.  Anyone who reached out to her only caused her to dart away in another direction.  I reached in my pocket and grabbed the cheese I had on me as a training reward.  I was thinking if she came close enough I would throw a bunch of cheese on the ground in her direction and make a dive for that leash that was trailing behind her.  But she never made it close enough to me.  All of her side-to-side dashing away from strangers gave her owner enough time to get within shouting distance of her.  And shouting he was.  I heard him yelling at her to come to him and I could see her ears pin back with fear when she heard that voice.  “Uh oh,”  I thought.  “He’s not the one we should all be pitying.”

The poor dog was now torn between fear of running away and fear of returning to her owner.  As the wheelchair crept closer and closer, she would trot further to maintain the distance, but then she would stop and cower whenever her owner would yell.   “Get over here, GET OVER HERE!”  I could hear him seething and his scowl was visible even from 50 yards away.  I frowned.  The situation was all too predictable at this point. Sadly, I watched it unfold just the way I knew it would.  The dog gradually stopped trotting further away and the wheelchair slowly closed the distance between them.  Once he got close enough, the yelling owner was able to freeze his dog in place by intimidating her with his anger.  Then, when he finally caught up to her he really let her have it.  He grabbed the leash and yanked it hard several times, “Don’t you EVER do that AGAIN!” he bellowed through clenched teeth.  The poor dog had her head hung so low I wanted to cry.

“You should’ve just kept running girl,” I thought.  I was sick to my stomach.  There was a strange mixture of emotions churning there: anger, sadness, disappointment, and shock – to think I initially felt bad for the man.  It took me several minutes of pacing and a few deep breaths to make the difficult decision NOT to intervene.  I wanted to be a protector for the dog and a teacher to the man.  There was a strong part of me that badly wanted to go over and have a talk with him.  To tell him it was plainly obvious why his dog would not come back to him.  That I knew exactly why he had to endure the embarrassment of chasing her around Central Park in front of dozens of shocked onlookers.  To tell him that she was scared, not disobedient.  To explain that he only made it worse for next time.  To tell him it was quite possible his dog hated him as much as she loved him.

But I decided this was not my place. Not here, not now.  The man and his dog were completely stressed out. I didn’t think he’d be open to any sort of listening or further embarrassment.  I figured the last thing he wanted was for some strange dog trainer to come over and start teaching him about a personal interaction he just had with his own dog, who he had to chase down from a wheelchair in public.  I let it be.

For the rest of the walk with Grayson, and for the rest of the day, I kept thinking back on whether I should have said something to that man.  Maybe I could have changed the way he interacted with his dog in the future.  Maybe I could have just given him my card and said “Let’s talk at a later time.”

I do believe that most people, even those who scold too much  – and at the wrong times – are more clueless than malicious when it comes to their dogs.  This guy was certainly clueless, to say the least.  If you were in the same situation, would you have gone up to him afterwards?  If so, what would you have said?

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Tip of the Day – Don’t Ruin the Recall: Part 2

June 9, 2010

Yesterday I said that you should never end a recall with something your dog won’t like.

Sounds obvious right? You’re saying you would never end a recall with a punishment. Ha! Are you sure?

Most dog owners make this mistake ALL THE TIME without realizing.  Here’s a simple example:  It’s the morning.  Your new puppy is happily chewing her toy on the rug across the room.  You are standing on the opposite end of the room, by the kitchen, where her gated confinement area is.  It’s time for you to go to work so you call her over to you and she runs right over with enthusiasm.  You give her a quick hug, scoop her up and drop her into the gated area, then leave for work.

No math degree is required for your pup to calculate the net result of her coming when called.  Here’s how her computations went.  She came.  She received: interruption of enjoyable chewing, confinement, and hours of alone time.  In one fell swoop you have just ruined your indoor recall.  Next time you call your pup from across the room in the morning, expect to get response #1 from yesterday’s post (motionless inquisitive look).  Repeat the call-and-confine mistake again and you’ll soon be getting response #3 (running away from your call).

Don’t despair, I have good news.  There’s a way to solve this dilemma. If you have to call your dog for something she won’t like… Don’t.  Do one of these instead:

Option 1: Go get her instead of calling her. This is the best and easiest solution in most cases.  Say nothing.  Don’t ruin your recall cue!  Whether the cue is something casual for indoors (like her name and a leg pat) or your formal training cue for outdoors (like “Come!”) – you should never say any recall cue before your dog will get something she doesn’t like (nail clipping, confinement, baths, smothering from a wild pack of toddlers, etc).  Stop.  Hold your tongue.  Don’t call her.  Just calmly go get her.

Option 2: Do something very fun and rewarding for a couple of minutes BEFORE exposing your dog to the thing she doesn’t like. For example, as in the case described above,  if you call your dog to come over to you and the next event is going to be you leaving for work, don’t put her in confinement and leave RIGHT AFTER she comes to you. Do something fun and completely unrelated for a couple of minutes first.  (I must warn you, though: If you repeat the same pattern every time, a smart dog (most are) will pick up on the associations and learn that the confinement is coming soon in the sequence of events after the recall.  Better to go with option 1 or 3 if you can’t be sufficiently random enough to keep your dog from picking up on your patterns.)

Option 3:  Teach your dog to like the thing she doesn’t like. This is the hardest and most time-consuming option but also the longest lasting and truly best.  As in the above example where you have to go to work and leave your pup in a gated area – you should teach your pup to love that “den” and be comfortable being alone for a few hours at a time.  (It goes without saying that you have pet sitting lined up to break up the day, right!?) Teaching your pup to calmly accept isolation is a topic for another day, but a very important one.  A few quick hints for this: make the confinement area fun (food puzzle toys) and comfortable, gradually increase separation time and distance from you, provide sufficient exercise before and after separation time.

The Wrap: To get a dog who really loves coming when called and responds with enthusiasm every time, the trick is to greet her arrival with generous, awesome rewards. Rewards are anything your dog loves: walks, rubs, toys, play, chase, treats, more freedom, etc – be creative, unpredictable, and generous.  Have fun!  This is especially important in the early training of the recall and if done right, can make a positive association that will last a lifetime.

Yesterday I promised you an intense story about coming when called, but as I continued writing everything you need to know about recalls there was so much more to say that the story will have to wait until tomorrow.  For today, I’d like to wrap by giving you a simple proven formula for getting success with your own dogs outside.

I LOVE to take my dogs hiking off-leash in the woods and through open fields. Therefore they must come when called.  They’ve all learned this and so have clients’ dogs who have stayed in my home and hiked with my family.  Here’s one of my favorite methods for teaching dogs to be reliable off-leash:

  1. I reserve very high value, healthy, rewards ONLY for practicing recalls in the outdoors (ex., boiled chicken).
  2. I practice with a hungry dog to enhance the reward value (ex., we skip breakfast and go out in the morning)
  3. I start out on a long line to ensure safety and to ensure that if the dog ignores me he does not have more fun ignoring me than listening to me.
  4. I reward all positive responses to recalls with generous amounts of tasty treats, praising and rewarding for at least 15 seconds straight.  Then, I say OK! and…
  5. I immediately let the dog run back out into nature and freedom.

That last step is important.  The release back into freedom becomes a reward in and of itself!


Part 3 tomorrow, see you then.

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How to Get Your Dog to Come to Any Spot You Choose (Part 2)

May 17, 2010

This is a great followup for all of you who have taught your dog the basic foundation for hand targeting.  If you haven’t done that yet, no problem, here’s Hand Targeting Part 1.

This is awesome for getting your dog to come when called, and for guiding her to or from any spot you choose (off the furniture, into the car, out of someone’s way in the elevator, etc.)

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Let’s Get Movin’ – How to Teach Your Dog an “OK” Release

May 13, 2010

Hi Everyone!  Here is the must-have follow-up to yesterday’s episode, How to Get Your Dog to Sit Still

You just learned another Basic Obedience lesson, awesome.  Now be a rock star dog owner – have fun doing it with your dog! I promise she will love it.  Why?  Because it’s fun, mentally challenging, and bonding time with you. Dogs LOVE to play challenging games and earn rewards: your attention, praise,  treats, games of tug, etc.  To your dog, getting rewarded in these training games is like getting a bonus at work is for you, or a top score on your exam. It feels good to be challenged, accomplish something, win. It’s important to your dog’s mental health!

The best part: Just 10 minutes of practice a day can make a huge difference in your dog’s behavior and your connection.  2 minutes here, 3 minutes there – just slip a little training into your routine.  Look at me in these videos, all I’m doing is a few minutes of training right before Hazel’s mealtimes.  Watch how fast she learns.  Easy.  No dog and owner should miss out on this stuff.

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Get Your Dog to Sit Still (on the Way to Stay)

May 12, 2010

Thanks for joining in Basic Obedience Class with me.  Your dog will thank you, too!  Every dog loves a fun training session.  Share this with a friend:

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Teach Your Dog to Come to Any Spot You Choose (Hand Targeting)

May 1, 2010

Hand targeting is useful, easy to learn, and fun. The object is to get your dog to touch her nose to your hand, on your cue.  This gives you the ability to tell her exactly where you want her to go at any time, with just a simple hand gesture.  I find this to be extremely useful – even more than you might think at first.  It helps with long-distance recalls and acts as the perfect way to say “come on over here,” for casual call-overs and short distances.  The video shows it all.  Here are the written steps to help you further.

How to Teach Hand Targeting:

  1. Hold several small treats in one hand and rub the scent of the treats onto the fingers of your other hand.  Put both hands behind your back.  Now, bring the empty, scented, hand out from behind your back and hold it out just a couple of inches from your dog’s nose, with 2 fingers extended.  (Two fingers will become the signal that tells her this is specifically a command to “Touch” your hand.)
  2. When your dog touches her nose anywhere to your hand, immediately mark the behavior with enthusiastic praise, and quickly reward with a treat from your other hand (remember to keep this other hand hidden behind your back until your dog earns the reward).
  3. Repeat this several times and then switch hands, making your other hand the target now.  You can present the target hand to different sides of your dog’s face, but stay very close to the nose in the beginning, gradually moving further away if she is “getting it.”
  4. Do not add the verbal cue “Touch” until your dog shows consistent understanding that touching your hand with her nose is the behavior that earns the reward.

Hint:  When your dog is off-leash and you call her to “Come,” you can use this hand signal as a target to draw her all the way in, right next to your side.  Since you already called her to “Come,” you won’t need to say the verbal cue “Touch” – the hand signal alone will draw her in.

Okay, your dog has that first part down?  Now you can start to increase distance and change angles. Follow these instructions.  Pretty soon you’ll be able to use Touch from all the way across a room, and then from across a field.  In that case, it works just like a recall.  Awesome.

  1. Say “Touch” and show your pup the hand signal with 2 extended fingers, about 1 foot from the side of his nose.
  2. When your dog touches his nose to your hand, immediately praise and reward.
  3. Repeat this several times from different angles and then begin to practice with your other hand as the target.
  4. Once your dog shows consistent understanding, try increasing the distance from his nose to 2-5 feet.  Try moving him to your right and left sides using your hand as the target.
  5. As I said above, pretty soon you’ll be able to use Touch from all the way across a room, and then from across a field.  You can add the Sit command right afterwards for a beautiful finish to a recall.

Hint: You can turn “Touch” into a fun trick, too.  Once your dog really gets the concept, try getting him to jump up and hit your hand by putting the two-finger target out over his head.  Some dogs can get some really good air on this.

Now that you’ve got this down, take the next step.  Here’s Hand Targeting Part 2.

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Tip of the Day: Sit for 3 Rewards OTHER than Food

April 29, 2010

Today’s tip gets to the heart of your relationship with your dog. It also reflects whether or not your training to date has been truly successful.  If your dog will do this, it’s a sign that she respects you as the person in charge of everything wonderful and that she enjoys working with you.  If your dog won’t do this, it’s still good news because if you do this right, it will change the relationship between the two of you for the better.  It’s SO simple.  You ready?  All I want you to do is request a Sit for 3 rewards every day OTHER than food. That’s it.  At least 3 times every day, ask your dog to Sit without having ANY food present.  Reward her with something else that’s meaningful to her.  Not sure what that could be?  Don’t worry, I’ll explain.  But first, a word from our sponsors…

"Okay, you can see we're REALLY polite, well-mannered boys. Can you take the picture now so we can go back to wrestling in the grass?"

Let’s assume your dog has already been trained to Sit on cue.  At this point sitting for a treat is TOO easy and does not fit into the context of every day life.  In other words, if your dog will ONLY sit when you have treat, then she’s NOT going to listen whenever she knows you don’t have a treat. That’s annoying, to say the least.

Sit is a very easy way for your dog to say “please.”  When she sits she is saying, “Look at me, I’m being polite, I’m under control, I have manners, I respect you!”  (Of course to really MEAN it she has to be sitting still. Sitting for one second and then jumping on you does not count.  If you have that problem and you’re not sure how to fix it, email me.)

So what could I possibly mean by rewards other than food? It depends on what your dog likes!  Know your dog as an individual (there’s another tip that will go a long way if you take the time to do it).

Okay, so here are just a few examples you could use with your dog:

1. Sit before I open a door for you. (When he sits, praise, and open the door – that’s the treat, we’re going somewhere!)

2. Sit before I invite you up on the furniture.

3. Sit before I throw your toy.

4. Sit before I bend down to give you the belly rub you are requesting with that oh-so-cute-look.

5. Sit before I let you out of your crate or pen or gated area.

6. Sit before I let you into the dog park.

7. Sit before I un-clip your leash and set you free.

8. Sit before we continue this game of tug you are so excited about.

9. Sit before I refill that empty water bowl you are standing over.

10. Sit for the deluge of love and attention that I’m dying to give you.

There are endless possibilities.  Can you see what I’m getting at here?  Are you getting a feel for how this works? Can you see why it can be SO effective?    All right, then, let’s do it!  All you have to do is provide the reward right after the Sit. Remember the reward is anything your dog likes – OTHER than food.  This helps your dog to appreciate that listening to you is important in many different contexts – not just when he can smell the treats.  It also solidifies the concept that you are the one in control of the resources.  This is what makes you fun and worth paying attention to, worth being polite to.

If your dog doesn’t know how to sit yet, dont’ worry, that’s easy to teach. Any good training book, or class, or online video can teach you this.  Pick a method based on positive reinforcement, please.  There is no reason to tap butts or jerk chains.  Make it fun.

Now – if your dog “kind of” knows Sit but is only responsive sometimes, or is slow to respond, then you need to take a step back.  Don’t blame the dog.  Get to work.  I would go back to practicing lots and lots of repetitions WITH treats (or whatever your dog’s favorite reward is).  Get the sit behavior really strong, really ingrained.  Practice in lots of different environments (all around the house, inside and out, should be a fine set of environs to start with).  Work until your dog clearly understands the signal to Sit.  You’ll know because you’ll get instaneous responses to the verbal and/or hand signal.  Now you’re ready.  Let’s go.  Get started with today’s tip immediately: Request a Sit for 3 Rewards Every Day OTHER than Food.  You’ll be so pleased with how much more attentive and respectful this makes your dog. Try it.  Have fun!  Enjoy the results.

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